How  to

... espalier

... rose care, planting and pruning

... growing plants in pots 

... care for Fruit Trees

... pollination of Fruit Trees

... rose care without spraying

... planting basics

... trim a hedge

... prune and spray

... prune Berries and Brambles

... prune Apricots, Almonds, Quinces, Pears

... prune Peach and Nectarine Trees

... prune Apple Trees

... make compost

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Growing Plants in Pots

Growing plants in containers has been practiced for centuries for a number of diverse reasons. One of the major reasons is that many people lack the ground space into which to plant both ornamental and edible plants. The next major reason is that a beautiful container with a beautiful plant in it is a spectacular focal point and can be used to great effect in a design; to frame a view, to create emphasis and to finish an outdoor room.

 There is a huge amount of versatility in gardening in containers. Conditions can be ideally created. Plants in pots can provide colour to brighten up patios, steps pathways, courtyards, balconies, rooftops, decks and just about any situation that may look drab. Pots are also the ideal place to nurture and display plant collections that are rare, valuable and exotic.

When planted with some attention given to the type of plant, colour of bloom and foliage, textural contrast etc. containers become living arrangements. Just about any plant may be grown in a container and flexibility of planting and arranging can be more varied than permanent planting. As the seasons change, so does the sun's path and the container can be moved according to its cultural needs. You can also use container plants to ‘show off' a particular plant by putting it in a prominent place when it is in bloom and retiring it in the back benches when its flowering time is over.

It is true that pot grown plants are higher maintenance in that they require constant attention. They tend to dry out very quickly, and including a moisture-retaining agent in the potting soil is a good idea - but be aware that when these gel-like granules swell, they will increase the volume of the soil, so it is best to mix them through, water well and wait until they have swelled before filling the container to its desired level.

 It is best to thoroughly drench the soil after planting and do not re-water until it is dry. It is really essential to use a high quality potting soil and to repot on a regular basis as plants will use the nutrients of the soil quickly and the watering process will leach out the nutrients too.

Container gardening can be an ideal solution for people with physical limitations that prevent them from working down at ground level. It can also be the answer for those with soil problems. For anyone, growing annuals in containers can provide an extra dimension of gardening pleasure, both outdoors in summer and indoors in winter.

All that's essential with container gardening is that the container be capable of holding soil as well as allowing excess water to drain away. Keep in mind that plants thrive more readily in larger amounts of soil, because the soil temperature and moisture level fluctuate less as soil volume increases. Unless the gardener is extremely vigilant, plants are more likely to suffer frequent drying out and overheating when planted in small pots.

Re-potting

With time, the roots of container grown plants will fill all of the available space in the pot and become root-bound, slowing the growth of the plant and sometimes even bringing the growth to a halt. At this stage, the plant needs a larger container. It is advisable to transplant into a pot that is one size larger than the current pot, rather than jumping to a very large one. Slow-growing plants may require repotting every two to three years, while faster growing plants should be repotted annually.

Before you re-pot , water the plant thoroughly several hours before removing it from the container. This will help to remove the roots from the planter more easily, and reduce transplant shock. Turn the pot upside down holding your hand at the  base of the plant  and tap the rim of the pot gently until the root ball slides out of the container. Never pull on the stem of the plant to remove it, rather continue tapping or rolling the pot until the roots slide out on their own.

Using your fingers, carefully loosen the roots at the base and on the sides of the root-ball and along the side of the root ball to allow them to grow into the new soil. If the root ball is extremely knotted and tight, it may be advisable to cut a chunk off the bottom of the root-ball but when removing roots it is necessary to leave a percentage of the white hair-like roots as these are the feeder roots and are important for the uptake of water.

Carefully set the plant into the new container, center it and make sure it is standing straight and begin adding potting mix around the root ball, tamping it lightly until you have filled the gaps and slightly covered the top. Be sure to leave a proportion of the top of the pot - according to its size - free of soil so that it can retain rain water and so that soil does not wash away when being watered by hose.

It is a good idea to leave the newly re-potted plant in a shady place to allow it to recover from transplant shock and after a few days, place it back where it was before, preferably facing the same direction.

Do not be tempted to use ordinary garden soil - no matter how good it is to fill your container as you will be creating drainage problems for sure.  Only use commercially prepared products as these are designed with drainage in mind and are specially formulated to allow water to filter through the material and out of the hole in the pot. Oh, and whilst on the subject of holes, never ever plant in a container without a hole! It is not necessary to fill the bottom of the pot with broken pots of pebbles which used to be the practice in the past - but it is advisable to place one pebble over the drainage hole, without blocking it completely, to prevent the soil from running through.

It is also important to use fertilisers specifically formulated for Pots and containers as these take into account that the potting soil is not being fed form any other source and will balance the nutrients required.

Here are some suggestions for containers:

For Low maintenance and exotic effect - plant Yuccas, Cycads, Palms

For extremely low maintenance - grow a variety of succulents - they look stunning with their intersting forms and colours.

For that Classic look - plant Topiaries and Standards. These plants become very valuable as they grow bigger.

For ‘fluffy pots' which are colourful and which can be varied each season - plant a variety of annuals.

 For pots in shady places - plant Camellias, Hydrangeas, Hostas

For fabulous effect in hot, sunny places - you cant go wrong with Lavender!

Arrange pots in groupings of odd numbers for best effect - 1, 3, 5, 7 etc. and grouping pots in differing sizes is very effective too. The 'Heaven, Man, Earth' principle is based on a ratio of proportions from large, medium and small as well as vertical - tall, wide - medium, and horizontal - small or flat. We have a really amazing range of pots and containers - so come along and have a browse.

ESPALIER

Don’t be put off by the fancy French word! People think that the process of Espaliering a tree is for horticultural Houdinis, when in  fact anyone can muck around with the secateurs (there’s another French word!)  and shape a tree or shrub into an Espalier. So get in touch with your inner Frenchie, and give it a go! 

What you want to achieve is the creation of a "two-dimensional" or single-plane pattern made by the branches of the tree. The technique was popular in the Middle Ages in Europe to produce fruit inside the walls of a typical castle courtyard – where space was limited - and to decorate solid walls. Evidence exists suggesting that the technique dates back even further, perhaps to ancient Egypt. I wonder if Cleopatra espaliered in her spare time, when she wasn’t seducing some hot Pharaoh or other. 

The word ‘espalier’ initially referred to the actual trellis on which the plant was trained to grow, but over time has come to be used to describe the technique.

An espalier collects almost as much sunlight as a regular tree, yet has far less mass. It can also be planted next to a wall, which will reflect more sunlight and retain heat overnight, or be planted so that they are facing North and can absorb maximum sunlight. These two facts allow an espalier to succeed in cooler climates, where a non-espaliered tree of the same variety would fail. They also mature their fruit more quickly. 

Today, espaliered trees, ornamental and fruit producing, are grown not only against walls, but free-standing on wires, both to save space and to create screens as well. So the notion that a lot of space is required to grow fruit is no longer valid. And remember, you do not require any special skills to espalier trees, as this comes with experience. Today, espalier has evolved from a space-saving technique into an art form.  

What types of fruit trees can be Espaliered?

Almost any variety of apple, pear or fig is suitable for espalier. Stone fruit (peaches,  plums and cherries) are best suited to the fan-shaped espalier as their more brittle wood is difficult to train on the horizontal lines.

Locating your Espalier trees

All fruit trees require a sunny site sheltered from wind If your region is prone to spring frosts, adequate air circulation around the tree is necessary. They can be grown along walls and fences but beware of north facing iron fences as the heat reflected from these may scorch the tree.  If you do not have a wall they can be grown along a free standing fence strung with wires supported by sturdy posts which should be placed about 4-5 m apart and 2m of post above ground. 4 - 5 wires should be tightly strung between posts, with the first wire 50cm above the ground and the others at 30cm intervals. Use soft materials such as hessian, rubber, nylon stockings to tie the branches to the wires. Do not tie with wire as this can damage the branches. 

Types of Espalier 

There are several types of espalier, including Standard (branches grow horizontally out of one central trunk), Palmette (branches grow in a fan shaped pattern), and Cordon (the tree resembles a Candelabra). A Belgian Fence is a form of espalier that weaves a row of espaliers into a fence. There are other more elaborate shapes that are variations on the above.Each espalier pattern requires different training, but in general the light pruning and shaping is done in the autumn, the heavy pruning in the winter and the training in the summer when growth is at its peak.

Standard Espalier Training techniques

One year old trees are best, and the ideal is that they should be unbranched. If only branched trees are available, retain the straightest leader and cut away the rest. After planting, the central leader is reduced to 5 cm below the first wire and when growth occurs, only the top 3 shoots should be allowed to grow. The top shoot is then tied to an upright cane that is secured to the wires. The 2 side shoots will become the 2 lowest branches. Tie side shoots to canes at an angle of about 45 so the laterals maintain their strength of growth while training is started.  

In late autumn remove the supporting canes and tie the branches to the horizontal wires. With the central stem again cut back to about 5 cm below the second wire to train the next tier. Continue every season until the tree reaches the top wire when you only retain 2 buds to tie down. 

Fan Espalier training techniques
For stone fruit, the central leader is cut out, leaving 2 vigorous side shoots which are trained outwards at 30 - 45 degree angles to encourage branching. As they fruit only on 1 year old wood, there must be a continual renewal of growth to carry fruit. Fruit the lateral one year, and after harvest shorten to a side shoot near the base.

Belgian Fence Espalier training techniques 

This pattern will form a very dense screen and is best used in a free standing situation. To create this, several plants are spaced 45-60cm apart. After planting, prune and train as for a horizontal cordon. When the lateral shoots form, train them at opposite 45 degree angles so that laterals from neighboring plants cross to form a diamond pattern. A plant that has been espaliered correctly is a beautiful asset to any garden or wall. It is a perfect solution for small-inner city gardens.

Once your espaliered fruit trees have been established it will require less pruning and more support as the fruit grows heavier. And you will be regarded as an Artiste! 

Rose Care, Planting and Pruning

This is a question we keep getting asked, so Harry and I thought we would put together a few hints with the hope that this might help you out. It may look like a recipe and in some ways it is, but here is what we suggest.

Prepare the hole, make sure it is bigger than the base of your rose, chop up the soil loosely and endeavour to use good top soil.

Don't plant your rose in compost - while it is in its winter dormant phase - unless you have had the compost mixed up in the soil for at least three months. If you do plant into compost the new roosts will soak up the compost which will damage the new roots and they rot. Not a good look!

Add mulch to the soil level any time and the worms compost it down for you.

Ensure that the soil level is below the graft line. - see drawing

Don't plant using normal rose fertiliser. Use a slow release such as Burnets Gold. Established roses should be fertilised in late August early September when the new leaves start to appear. It is not a good idea to throw fertilizer around the crown area. Scatter and rake over at the drip line. Enjoy your results.

Rose Maintenance

Look for a strong bud union and healthy canes. Remember that it takes two to three years, for your rose to grow into a good flowering plant.	Make sure your rose bush is not smothered and that it has plenty of air movement so it develops a tough leaf. Remove all leaves that drop [and prunings from around the plant] - these may harbour spores that could reinfect. My golden rule is to spray regularly, to spray prior to rain and again the day the rain stops. A winter spray programme will provide a good base for the start of a new season. Alternate your sprays so that disease resistance doesn't become a problem. Spray in fine, but dull and wind free weather conditions ensuring that there is plenty of drying time. If rain washes your spray off then you will have to reapply it. Sometimes a spray at this time is better than nothing. Spring (September to November) The first leaves of the season are delicate and can be susceptible to infection due to the climatic conditions of Spring. From leaf burst apply Gild or Shield and alternate them at approx 14 day intervals. These are good sprays for general use. Gild and Shield are systemic sprays that control both fungal and insect problems. Downy mildew can also be a problem in Spring and Autumn and appears as purple blotches on the upper leaf surface and a mildew appearance on the underside of the leaf. This can be prevalent in cool moist conditions and good air cirulation will help - this means preventing plants growing too close to your roses. Bravo can be alternated with various products - I recommend using Gild, Shield, Super Shield or Watkins Fungus and Mildew Spray. Spray 14 days apart and alternate. However, if my roses get an infection then I spray closer together than 14 days, to bring it under control. Bear in mind with timing that if rain is imminent it is better to spray the roses than to leave them. Constant deheading will keep your roses in bloom over this time.
If you want your roses in flower for a particular event, then cut them back approx seven to eight weeks prior and feed and water them well.	Summer (December to February) This is the time of year that people tend to get lazy: holidays are more important and spraying tends to cease. It is important if you want good looking plants going into the Autumn for flowering that you maintain some of your programme. If you don't, then the plants tend to defoliate due to disease. I tend to let my spraying frequency lengthen but I keep it going over the season. Powdery mildew and mites tend to be the problems through the Summer. Keep up with Sprays of Gild, Shield, Super Shield, Bravo and or Watkins Fungus and Mildew Spray, Mites are a real nuisance and the sprays to control them are quite toxic. However, you can use Spraying oil at summer rates which will help, and I have been using an insecticide called Mavrik which contols both Mites and Aphids. Remember to feed your roses with an artificial fertilizer during mid February for the Autumn flowering flush. Spray for rust when you notice it, with Mancozeb or Yates All Purpose Rose Spray. Maintain deep waterings to keep your roses flowering through this time. A good deheading (early Feb) will promote an Autumn flush of blooms. Remember, as a rough guide, it takes about 8 weeks (depending on the season) from the time of deheading before the next crop of flowers.
Pruning Guide Cut too high above bud: may die back Cut at wrong angle to new bud Correct cut and to new bud	Autumn (March to May) The slower time of year. Basically keep up with your Gild and alternate sprays at what I would call 'rest' frequencies - in the home garden you should be able to stretch this out to perhaps 3 weeks if conditions are good. Don't dehead during this period, as when your roses have finished their Autumn flowering you want them to set hips. Winter (June to August) The winter clean up time. By doing a good spraying effort here with the safer sprays of Copper, Oil and Lime Sulphur you will get your roses off to a really good start for the Spring. When such time comes that you think the roses should have finished flowering (around April going into May), start with Copper oxychloride. This will harden the leaves and help force them to drop. It is important to pick these leaves up and burn or dispose of them in your rubbish collection. 2 or 3 sprays of copper at a week to 14 days apart should be enough to help your roses into Winter retirement. Wait for two weeks after the last copper spray - this is important as Copper is incompatible with Lime Sulphur. Spray a Lime Sulphur spray and then two weeks later, spray again. Lime Sulphur has quite a distinctive smell and will stain your house, so be warned. Two weeks later spray again with Copper Oxycloride and Spraying Oil. You are now ready to prune. Follow pruning with another Copper and Oil spay and perhaps another in two weeks time. Make sure the spray gets into all the crevices of the rose and it is a good idea to spray the surrounding ground. Prune your roses late June to Early August. Finally, during mid to late August, feed your roses with artificial fertilizer for their Spring flowering. And most importantly, make sure you take the time to enjoy the rose. Pruning There are a lot of myths and apprehension attached to this pastime. The basic rules are really simple. Remove any diseased or spindly growth. Remove any branches that cross over other branches. Prune to buds from behind and slightly above the bud at approx 45degree angle. Aim for a well shaped and open bush or shrub. Usually remove one quarter to one third of the last seasons growth. If you are trying to maintain the bush to a certain height then work on replacing old wood with new current season's growth.

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Rose Care without spraying

If you don’t like to spray your roses – which you certainly don’t have to do if you have only a few bushes and climbers in your garden, check out this natural rose care programme. 

Just remember, as with anything in life, try to create a balance. The whole thing about healthy plants is to give them a balanced diet through creating healthy soil. If you want to boost your immune system, you know that you must ensure that you get a consistency of good nutritional stuff in you diet. Same with plants.

So what does a balanced diet look like for roses? Well, of course, good compost, well-rotted manures, natural rose fertilizer, potassium in the form of sulphate of potash, mulches, and soil enrichers like blood and bone. 

Why is it that we expect perfection from nature when we know that there is no such thing? Whilst heavy spraying with toxic chemicals results in a perfect rose bush, what is so terrible about a couple of black spots on a couple of leaves? It’s time that we got over all that and just accepted that in the current environment, nature is flawed, and that even though a few aphids may be having a good ol’ time on our roses, the bushes still produce fantastic blooms!  

So check out these tips for promoting balance in soils and plants: Firstly, experiment with your favourite roses by using the tips we have suggested and see how they respond. Let us know how you get along and we can put some results on our Forum.

Some roses that we know of that are disease resistant, are really vigorous  and will be able to withstand the onslaught of black spot, mites and powdery mildew better than others are: 

Bush Roses 

• Iceberg - White
• Elina -Creamy yellow
• Paddy Stevens - Coral pink
• Loving Memory - Red
• Gold Medal - Gold
• Just Joey - Apricot
• Memoire - White
• Landora - Yellow
• Marie Dot - Apricot orange
• Avalanche - Creamy white
• Remember me - Orange
• Racy Lady - White
• Uncle Walter - Red 

Climbers 

• Iceberg - White
• Compassion - Pink bronze
• Uetersen - Pink
• Dublin Bay - Red
• Golden Shower - Gold  

A well fed soil will produce and sustain a strong plant that has better immunity to pests and diseases, so be generous with applications of a good quality organic compost. Mulch around the root base.  Be aware thatwhen you position the rose that it will fare better if there is good airflow around the plant as this is essential to reduce pest and fungal problems. And of course, it must have at least 6 hours of direct sunlight per day.

Roses will tolerate a wide range of soil types including clays, although a fertile loam with a pH of 6.5 to 7 is ideal.  

Companion planting has been shown to have good results in fending off pests and diseases. Garlic – both culinary and wild, tansy and rue are compatible with roses and should be underplanted. Plants to attract and feed beneficial insects such as parasitoid wasps and hoverflies include alysum, coriander, dill, gypsophila and phycelia. Grow these in the vicinity of the roses.   

Avoid overhead watering, especially late in the afternoon or evening. Aim to keep the leaves as dry as possible, although an occasional hosing to wash off dust will not harm the plants. Water deeply to improve drought resistance - shallow watering encourages shallow rooting. 

Mulches are important both to keep the roots cool and to reduce weed growth. Weeding or digging around the roots can cause damage to the shallow root system. Mulch with pea straw to 12 cm deep. Keep the mulch away from the stem of the plant.  

Feed your roses regularly during their period of active growth with well-rotted manure or compost. Always add some sulphate of potash to blood and bone as it lacks potassium. Spray seaweed onto the leaves, in the afternoon, every 2 to 3 weeks. This raises the pH of the leaf surface and adds trace elements improving disease resistance. 

NATURAL DISEASE AND PEST CONTROL 

BLACK SPOT

Black spot is a fungal disease which can be a major problem during the growth season. The fungal spores need to be immersed in water for a number of hours in order to germinate so doing everything possible to reduce moisture on the leaves and improve air circulation is important. Also, paying attention to the following assists in preventing the disease: Remove any black spot damaged leaves as they appear and pick up any on the ground as black spot can over-winter in the fallen leaves.

Mulching acts as a barrier and helps restrict the spread of fungal spores from the soil onto the plant. A deficiency of potassium makes roses more vulnerable to this disease so regularly add sulphate of potash in spring, summer and autumn.

Through the growing period it is a good idea to alternate a foliar spray of seaweed with one of Condy’s crystals at two week intervals. To make a spray with Condy’s crystals mix 1 teaspoon to 5 litres of water.Seaweed sprayed onto the leaves changes the pH of the leaf surface making it less attractive to the fungal spores. It also strengthens the cell walls making it more difficult for the invading fungi. Lime sulphur can be used as a preventative fungicide on leafless roses in winter. A home-made rose fungicide can be made by dissolving 1 rounded tablespoon of baking soda (soda bicarbonate) in 4.5 litres of water. Add 2 1/2 tablespoons of Pest Oil. Agitate. Spray weekly as a preventative on roses to prevent black spot and mildew.·

APHIDS

Aphids are sucking insects that have a large number of natural enemies including lacewings, hoverflies, ladybeetles and parasitic wasps. They tend to be a problem where the use of pesticides is wiping out the natural predators or at times of the year when natural predators are not present in large numbers.  

Avoid high nitrogen fertilizers as these will stimulate aphid reproduction.Hang sticky yellow traps above rose bushes to catch the first generation of winged aphids flying in. Keep an eye out for aphids on soft, new growth, either squash between your fingers or spray with a strong jet of water. If you keep doing this, the aphids will find somewhere more peaceful to go and suck the sap. 

SCALES

Scale are small sap-sucking insects that often go unnoticed, but they can do damage out of all proportion to their size. Insecticidal potassium soap sprays work by blocking the breathing pores and dissolving the scale’s outer covering so they dehydrate and die. Beneficial insects will not be harmed and soap sprays have a very low toxicity to people or pets.

Oil sprays made from Neem oil will kill all stages of scale insects by suffocation. It has a low impact on beneficial insects. 

CALENDAR OF ROSE CARE  

SPRING

Fertilise with blood and bone, up to 1 kg per bush, depending on soil fertility, mixed with 100g of sulphate of potash per bush, potash improves disease resistance (don’t use muriate of potash, it has a harmful effect on beneficial soil organisms). Apply a good mulch of well-rotted compost and pea straw.Spray new foliage in the afternoon with seaweed, repeat every 10-14 days

SUMMER

Fertilise repeat bloomers in mid to late summer. Fertilise again with 100g of sulphate of potash per bush

AUTUMN

Remove spent blooms on a regular basis. Fertilise again with blood and bone and 100g of sulphate of potash per bush

WINTER

This is the main period for pruning. Prune in August. Spray with lime sulphur to kill fungal spores. Dust the soil with lime to provide calcium.  

TIME TO GET A LITTLE FRESH & FRUITY!

If you want to get 5+ a day then it’s time to plan your home orchard.  Don’t be daunted by the complexity of the task or the size of your garden.  Fruit trees are relatively easy to grow if given the right conditions or alternatively the dwarf & columnar varieties can be grown quite happily in large containers.  Another popular growing method for smaller gardens is to espalier along a fence or trellis.

First let’s talk about planting.  The ideal time to plant your new fruit tree is from late autumn onwards.  Most nurseries have new fruit tree stock available in July.  As the deciduous fruit trees are dormant at this time of year (no leaves or growth to speak of) it is the best time for the trees to be wrenched from open ground nursery beds and bagged up for ready for sale.  It is perfectly OK to plant later in the year but winter is considered to be optimum.

Choose a sunny site with protection from harsh wind.  Strong winds will not only damage the fruiting blossom but worse still will disrupt the flight path of the bees which are doing their best to pollinate your tree.  Luckily a lot of deciduous fruit trees are indifferent to soil type however they all demand good drainage.  If you don’t think you have the right spot in your garden then consider growing dwarf fruit trees in strategically placed large container.  If you do choose to container grow (Citrus are especially suitable for this method) then never use anything but the best potting mix.

Once you have chosen your growing position dig a hole slightly larger than the root ball of the tree.  Add some well rotted organic matter such as compost, animal by products e.g. sheep pellets or leaf litter.  Do not be tempted to put great handfuls of fertilizer in the planting hole,  this will only damage the new emerging roots.  You can however use a measured amount of slow release fertilizer.  If necessary place a stake in the planting hole,  place your tree and back fill with nice crumbly soil rather than great heavy clods of turf.  Tamp the soil down and if available apply a layer of mulch.  Remember the planting depth should be equal to the level of potting mix in the planting bag.  Any soil or mulch should not be pressed hard or high up the trunk of the tree.  Leave a little breathing space for air and water to pass through to the root ball.  Water in well.

As the season progresses keep the trunks of the trees clear of weeds with mulch and avoid deep cultivation around the drip line (where the branches extend out to) as most fruit trees have surface feeding roots and it is best not to damage these by aggressive weeding.  If you are growing your trees in a lawn you will need to monitor your fertilizing and watering well as the grass will compete with your fruit trees for the available nutrients.

Assuming that your fruit trees are now growing well the next consideration will be pruning in winter.  All deciduous fruit trees should be pruned in the winter with the exception of Apricots which should be pruned in summer.  Evergreen fruit trees are best pruned in late winter to early spring.

My number one rule with pruning a fruit tree is that it should be done on a nice dry day to ensure the pruning cuts seal over quickly.  My number two rule is to ensure that your secateurs or loppers are sharp and clean and disinfected regularly between cuts and number three is don’t worry it’s easier than you think.

The main aim of pruning is to encourage new fruiting wood, to thin weak and crossing branches allowing the main frame work of the tree to get as much light as possible, to remove diseased or damaged wood and to keep the height of your tree in check so that you don’t have to find the ladder every time you want to pick an apple.  There are several choices when choosing how you want to prune your fruit tree:-

Modified natural growth                pruned lightly, keeps natural shape

Central Leader                    allowing the central leader to dominate

Vase shaped                       a frame work of 3 main branches

Espalier                             forced horizontal growth on support

The most common method is the vase shape.  The 3 main branches are pruned back by about a 1/3rd over a period of 3 – 5 years.  These branches in turn have side branches which are also taken back by about a 1/3rd for the first few years.  The side branches are where the fruiting wood will develop.  All pruning cuts are to a bud.  The smaller buds produce leaves or shoots.  The plumper buds produce the blossom and subsequently the fruit.  The fruit buds develop in to fruiting “spurs” and new lateral side shoots.  All cuts should be approximately 1cm above the bud.

Now if your eyes have glazed over with all of this and you’ve decided that you’re not going to bother planting a fruit tree after all don’t worry.  Even if you never prune your fruits trees you will still get fruit.  The quality of the yield maybe compromised but they will still taste great to you so “feel the fear and do it anyway”.

Below is a quick what to do when check list for maintenance of your orchard.  For more varietal detail check click on the specific fruit you to grow.

January
Water well in dry periods.
Check for Codling Moth, Thrips & Pear Tree Slug.  If found take appropriate action with an organic or chemical insecticide.

February
Water well in dry periods.
Prune Apricots.
Feed Citrus.

March
Yum yum enjoy those crisp fresh apples.

April
Start planning for additions to the orchard.

May
Check Citrus for Scale.  If found spray with horticultural oil.

June
Start pruning of all deciduous fruit trees (except Apricots).  Discard or burn prunings to prevent the spread of disease.

July
Choose new fruit trees.  Finish pruning.

August
Spray deciduous fruit trees with Copper Oxychloride prior to bud burst for disease prevention.
Feed Citrus.

September
Apply general fertilizer or slow release around the drip line of your deciduous fruit trees preferably on a wet day or water in well.

October
Plant new Citrus now that the danger of harsh frosts has passed.
Do not use insecticides near fruit trees to ensure the pollinating bees come to no harm.

November
Apply another small dressing of fertilizer to deciduous fruit trees.  Mulch well to preserve moisture now that summer is on the way.

December
It’s Christmas so it’s “hoe, hoe, hoe” of a different kind and time to have a break.
 

There’s nothing like a garden
For making you feel small
There you are , right in the middle
Of the greatest miracle of all –
The world of growing things.

Geoff Hamilton

POLLINATION OF FRUIT TREES

The most essential factor for pollination is that the two trees must flower at the same time. This varies from region to region and season to season. Plums that have been grafted as Doubles should pollinate each other. However, it cannot be presumed that if A pollinates B, that B will pollinate A.

POLLINATORS FOR PEARS

The most essential factor for pear pollination is that the two trees must flower at the same time. This varies from region to region and season to season. Pears that have been grafted as doubles or triples have been specially se1ected for their ability to pollinate each other.

Nashi Pollinators

Nashis could be regarded as partially serf fertile but  will crop best is cross pollinated by pears William Bon Chretien and Beurre Bosc or by other Nashis.

Apricot Pollinators

Most varieties are self fertile but will always fruit better and produce heavier and more regular crops if pollinated by another variety. As with other fruits, dual grafts are available and these have been specially se1ected for their ability to pollinate each other.

Almond Pollinators

Although some varieties of Almond are self fertile, for optimum cropping, planting more than one variety to ensure cross pollination is best.

PLANTING BASICS

We have heard all manner of amusing and unbelievable stories about what people have done to their plants in the process of settling them into their new homes. Whilst this has provided us with a chuckle from time to time, having heard of the demise of plants that we have sold, we have been encouraged to write this! 

• Firstly, choose a site that meets the criteria of the likes and dislikes of the plant as specified on the label or by our salespeople. Degrees of sunlight exposure, frost hardiness, water and soil needs and wind protection must all be carefully considered. And of course it must fit into your planting scheme in the overall landscape, so consider its height and width when fully grown. 

• Once you have chosen your growing position dig a hole slightly larger than the root ball of the tree, shrub or perennial.  Add some well rotted organic matter such as compost or animal fertilizers e.g. sheep pellet and mix it wit some loose soil in the hole. Well rotted compost is a dry, very crumbly, odorless substance, whereas partially rotted compost is wet and heavy and sticks together in clumps. The latter will burn the roots, so do not use it. Do not be tempted to put great handfuls of fertilizer in the planting hole as this will only damage the tender new emerging roots as well.  You can however use a measured amount of slow release fertilizer, but it is preferable to sprinkle it on top of the soil.  

• If the plant is going to need support, place a stake in the planting hole before placing the plant in position as this way you do not damage the roots by ramming a fat stake into the earth, and you get it in deep enough so that it supports the plant.  

• Remove the plant from its bag – use scissors to cut away the plastic or if it is in a pot, lay the pot on its side on the grass and gently press on the sides to loosen the root ball inside. You should then be able to gently pull the plant out of the pot.

• Be aware that it is possible that the plant may have been recently bagged or potted and that the roots may not have had time to hold the mix together and it may fall away. This is fine as long as you spread the loose roots out into a fan shape in the hole before covering them. It is obviously best to disturb the roots as little as possible.  Before placing the plant in the hole, gently scrape away the top 1cm of potting mix from around the trunk or stem, exposing the fine root hairs and removing any weed seed that may be lurking there, and then place it in the hole. Add some soil on the top to replace the 1cm that you removed, taking great care not to position it any lower or higher than the level of the potting mix was in the bag or pot.  

• Now fill the rest of the hole with loose, crumbly soil rather than great heavy clods of turf.  Tamp the soil down until the hole is filled and the root ball is snugly tucked in. Apply a layer of mulch to the soil but keep it clear of the trunk of the tree or this could cause collar rot.   Water in well with a gentle stream of water taking care not to disturb the soil or compost. To conserve water and ensure that the roots get the most benefit from it, create a small basin around the plant until it is established.

 How to Trim a Hedge 

Whilst the plants are still young, the shaping process must begin.  

• Leave the main stem of each plant to grow to the height that you want the hedge, but trim the lower branches to about half their length so that the plant becomes more bushy. 
• It is important to trim the hedge so that it slopes from wider at the bottom to narrower at the top in order for the lower part to receive enough light and therefore to continue to grow. 
• In order to trim the hedge straight, once it is fully grown, it is useful to tie a string along the line that you want the hedge to follow. Deciduous hedges need to be cut in Winter and evergreen hedges should be trimmed just before new shoots appear in the spring.
• Trim new shoots later in the season to encourage further bushiness.  

• Buxus hedging  

A new hedge will need light trimming to keep in shape. Shape as you would a mature hedge and this will prevent new growth from taking off in the wrong direction and will encourage bushiness in the right areas. Once the hedge is established it should only need trimming twice a year and this should be after the autumn and spring flush. Don’t trim too early in the spring, wait until the new growth is fairly advanced and then trim to shape.

Whilst the hedge is young, trimming with hedge clippers is easiest but as the hedge becomes mature, a motorized hedge trimmer is sometimes easier and certainly worth investing in. Keep the base of the hedge slightly wider than the top. It’s important to prevent weeds from growing within the hedge so that the hedge can develop without straggly weeds growing through and it can grow to its best potential. 

The hedge will benefit from a couple of feeds a year - one just as the spring flush is emerging and the other at the beginning of autumn. Feed with slow release fertilizer. Plants also respond very favourably to a regular organic feed, so fairly thick annual mulch with a good quality, weed free compost at the beginning of spring will do the job and also help to keep the weeds under control. 

• Camellia hedging 

As new growth occurs, trim it into the shape of a hedge. Trimming will encourage the plant to become bushy and fill the spaces in between the leaf growth. Trim twice a year: after the spring flush and then again the after the autumn flush.Feed with organic compost as with the Buxus hedging. 

• English Lavender hedging 

English Lavender, which has attractive spires of perfumed, lavender blue flowers in the spring will require fairly hard cutting back once they have finished flowering in order to ensure vigorous flowering for the following season. It is important to keep the area weed free and again, a thick dressing of organic compost in the late winter or early autumn will both feed the soil, and therefore the plants, and help to reduce weed growth. Take care not to cut the lavender too far below the woody stems as they may not recover. It is better to trim to the level of new growth from the last season. 

• Conifer hedging must not be cut back too hard. They will sometimes not regenerate if the old wood has been cut too far back.   

Prune and Spray 

Pruning 

• Get out there with your (sharp) secateurs at the appropriate pruning times – mostly late winter – and enjoy cutting back the old stuff to make way for the new! Although pruning requirements may differ from plant to plant, there are some basics that remain true to most.  

• The main object of pruning is to encourage new growth and new budding which will result in more prolific flowering. 

• Prune so that you remove all dead wood from the plant. 

• Observe the shape and form of the plant as you prune, so that you end up with a balanced, aesthetically pleasing shape.

• Cut cleanly just above a bud at a slight angle.  

• Some plants prefer hard pruning and others like light pruning. Check the plant specifications and if you have questions, just post them on our forum.  

Spraying 

• If you are going to use toxic chemicals to annihilate all the bugs and fungi in your garden, please do it properly! Remember that you are dealing with substances that can cause quite severe reactions in other forms of life, including yourself, so follow the instructions on the container and in the info below. 

• It is important to use a separate tank for spraying fungicide and pesticide so that this does not become contaminated with any weed sprays. It is best to have two separate tanks, but if you don’t, then ensure that the tank is washed out with Handy Andy and rinsed thoroughly before use. Partly fill the tank with water and mix the chemical with water in a jar or jug before adding it to the water in the tank. If you need to make a paste or slurry, first mix it and then dilute it with water and then add to the water in the tank. 

• If you are intending to use more than one spray, ensure that you can safely mix those sprays together by checking the instructions on the sprays concerned.  If it is safe to do so, then still mix them separately in the manner described above and add them in diluted form to the tank one at a time. 

• Wear protective clothing such as overalls and gloves and do your spraying in the early morning before the sun is up. At this time of the day there is no wind current caused by the movement of heat from the sun, there is therefore no spray drift and thus it is the optimum and safest time to spray.

• Do have a cold shower when you have finished the job! Yes, I did mean cold!   

Prune brambles and berries

Soft fruit bushes need pruning to keep the plant an acceptable size and compact shape. This encourages the formation of healthy fruits that are easy to pick. Sharpen those secateurs and off you go!

Black Currants bear their fruit on two year old wood. To make sure the bushes have a healthy proportion of new and old wood, prune established bushes every winter, taking out at least 1/3 of the darker, old wood just above where the lighter, new wood has branched out. Leave behind the lighter wood and don't prune it at all.

Red and White Currants, unlike black currants which shoot up from beneath the soil, sit on a short ‘let' or trunk from which lateral branches radiate. Prune each branch by half, cutting to an outward pointing bud. By pruning the leaders this way you will strengthen the plant and increase productivity. Prune back any laterals not needed for new leaders to encourage the formation of fruit. Some summer pruning can aid fruitfulness but is not essential.

Gooseberry bushes are pruned in the same way as red and white currants in order to achieve the same basic shape of strong branches radiating from a central stem.  When pruning, cut back to an inward or upward pointing bud, rather than an outward pointing bud. Summer pruning is well worth doing to aid fruiting. Cut back the side shoots as soon as the first fruits begin to colour, leaving about 10cm. Cut back the same side shoots to 2.5cm in the winter.

Blackberries generally have biennial stems which die after fruiting and are then replaced by the young canes but the fruiting canes of some of the more vigorous varieties are perennial. It is important to know this, because if there are not enough young canes produced in a particular year the old rods can be retained for another season. All that is necessary is to prune the laterals which carried the fruits back to 2.5cm

Loganberry and Boysenberry pruning is really simple, as all you do is to completely remove the fruited wood and in its place, train the new young canes. Wear gloves or buy the thornless varieties!

Raspberries should be grown against posts and wires for good cropping. In early spring, prune the tip of each cane and during the growing season; pull out weak suckers that appear. Once fruiting is over, cut out the old canes and tie the new canes to the supporting wires.

Blueberries require just a bit of pruning to remove overcrowded branches and to maintain shape of the bush. Blueberries are often grown as hedges and will therefore require shaping.

Pruning Plums

If you never pruned your Plum tree it would still crop well but it would just grow large and sprawling. So the ideal is to prune it to a good shape in the early years and then just maintain that shape as time goes on. The shape you want to achieve is an Open Centre, also known as the Vase Shape, as this method lets plenty of light and air into the centre of the tree.

The first rule for pruning plums is this: Never prune plums in the winter! This is because of the risk of a disease known as Silver Leaf which attacks the tree and can cause huge damage. When the tree is pruned in the summer months, the growth is strong and the sap is flowing and this prevents the disease from entering the pruning wound. It is best to always paint the cuts with a wound paint to protect the tree - and remember to sharpen your secateurs. It is advisable to also disinfect the secateurs as you move from tree to tree.

What sometimes mystifies people is the different types of buds on fruit trees; what is a fruit bud? What's a spur? The definition of a Spur is: a small lateral branch on a fruit tree which bears flower buds. The little pointy spurs are fruit buds. Each one of these will bear one or more fruits so you'll have far too many. Either thin the fruit, or you can thin the little spurs themselves before they set fruit.

Plums bear much of their fruit on lateral spurs that are two years old or older. These spurs are usually 20 - 30cm long. It is necessary to prune for renewal of some spurs each season, although most of the new growth is removed.  Depending on the variety, 20 - 40% of the fruitwood around the tree is renewed annually by leaving young shoots and removing old wood. This ensures a balanced crop that does not need thinning.

• The first year: Just as the buds are starting to break in the springtime, cut back the central stem of the tree to a bud at about two thirds of the height of the maiden tree. Shorten all the lateral branches to about 15cm to allow the main stem to thicken.

In mid summer, chhose about four or five evenly spaced primary branches around the main stem - these are the ones you will use to create the Vase shape. Pinch out the growing tips of all the other branches at about four or five leaves, including those lower down on the stem.

• The second year:  In spring, choose four or five branches that have formed wide angles with the stem. Cut back each leader of those se1ected by a half to an outward facing bud. Remove the remainder, including the lower laterals left the previous year to thicken the stem. In the summer remove any suckers that appear from the ground and remove shoots on the main stem below the ‘head'.

• The third year:  Repeat the procedures adopted in the previous spring and summer but allow more secondary branches to develop to fill the increased space, allowing up to eight strong and well-placed, outward growing branches.  In spring, cut these back by a half of the maiden growth to outward facing buds. Leave shoots on the outer parts of the head not required for the leaders. Prune back un-pruned laterals on the inside of the tree to about 15cms.

• In subsequent years, little pruning is necessary. Leading shoots may need cutting back, otherwise all that is necessary is to cut out dead, broken, rubbing or crossing braches and to thin out the head when it becomes too crowded - do this between December and the end of February.

Distinctions between Japanese and European Plums

During their formative years, Japanese plum trees should be trained to an open center. They grow vigorously and so require relatively heavy pruning to keep fruiting wood close to the trunk. These varieties will bear fruit on 1-year-old shoots as well as on long-lived spurs. Remove 1-year-old shoots to promote bearing only on the older spurs to prevent trees from overbearing. European varieties bear fruit only on spurs older than 1 year, so they bear less heavily and require less pruning. Don't prune out the 10 - 20cms fruit-bearing spurs; remove young shoots instead.

European plum trees should be trained to a conical shape with a central leader, much like apple trees. Unless the crop is unusually heavy, European plum trees require little fruit thinning. The closely related Damson plums require none at all. Japanese plums, on the other hand, tend to overbear and should be moderately thinned. All plum trees naturally thin themselves after the fruit has formed. During the spring drop, nearly every other plum may fall. Don't panic; it's natural. Follow up with a hand-thinning soon after to end up with fruits spaced about 10 - 20cms apart. European plums should be spaced one fruit every 5cms. This encourages larger, better tasting plums.

Prune Apricots, Almonds, Quinces, Pears

Pruning Apricots

APRICOTS MUST BE PRUNED IN SUMMER AT THE END OF THEIR FRUITING TIME.

• Se1ect old wood and prune and space branches to allow an even penetration of sunlight to all parts of the fruiting crop.
• The long ‘whip' branches that grow during the summer are the frui-producing wood for the coming year
• The fruiting spurs are borne on one year old branches. They appear towards the end or in the middle of the one year and older branches and they are the fattest and the fullest buds in the bud cluster. All the long, narrow buds are leaf buds. They have a tendency to gradually lower each year from the weight of the fruit and the foliage. These branches will be replaced with growth from the inside of the tree.
• Because apricot wood is brittle it is wise to not let any one branch grow too long. Erect growth is best, even if this means sacrificing some early fruit production. Encourage fruiting spurs by removing the tips of the new side shoots when they are about 7cm long. Usually in late spring. This will cause more shoots to grow and these can be shortened back to one leaf.
• Paint all cuts with pruning paste.

Pruning Pears

Pears fruit best on two and three-year-old wood, so do not prune back side shoots shorter that about 60cm long. A modified central leader is the best approach.

Apart from removing any odd looking fruit or thinning a branch that is too heavy, little pruning is required - a light trim, summer and winter, to keep the tree open and stop branches rubbing against each other is all that is needed.

Pruning Quinces

Not much pruning required for these wonderful trees except when they get too dense and overcrowded and the branches do not let light into the centre of the tree. Best to opt for an open, vase shape, but light pruning and the creation of an umbrella shape is best. Remove any diseased or damaged branches. Remove suckers that appear from the main trunk below the branches.

Pruning Almonds

The idea with Almond trees is to establish a really good shape so that it will not need major pruning once it is established. Almonds fruit on spurs that last about five years. For best nut production, prune the oldest fruiting wood 1/5 each winter while the tree is dormant.

If the tree has not been properly shaped when young, Almond trees can survive a drastic cut back and if a significant amount of fruiting spurs are still on the tree, you will still get a crop. If not, cut back by 1/3 some of the long new shoots (that are likely the result of this drastic pruning) to encourage new fruiting spurs to develop. If fruiting spurs are very old (10-15 years) they should be cut off to encourage new spurs which will yield more fruit.

Branches should be spaced to provide good air circulation and not cross each other. They should branch off each other at wide v-angles (a very narrow v-angle tends to split off in age). The tree should be balanced. Most mature Almonds need little pruning annually, so once this tree gets 'stabilized' it should do well on it own for some time with only minimal intervention.

Prune Peaches and Nectarines

When you see the difference in production between a fruit tree that has been pruned (and loved) and one that has been left to its own devices, you will be convinced that it is worth taking the time to prune it. And anyway, pruning is fun! The main aim of pruning is:

• to encourage renewal of fruiting wood for regular crops of quality fruit
• to let light into the tree
• to remove diseased parts and
• to control a tree's height

During the early stages of tree development, the main goal is to develop the shape and framework which will support the heavy crops of fruit. Pruning is done in winter when trees are dormant. Make sure secateurs are sharp, and cut just above each growth bud.

When removing dead or diseased wood, always cut through the healthy tissue below the diseased section. Paint large cuts with a sealing compound to protect against disease.

Peach & Nectarine Trees flower on new wood produced the previous summer. Prune hard to encourage new growth; otherwise fruit will be produced further and further out on the branches each year. Don't remove too many flower buds or the current season's crop will suffer. Flower buds are plump and round while growth buds are flatter.

Three main fruit tree shapes are:

Central Leader - A shape that is popular because it requires minimal pruning (usually only after the fourth year) and because it is easy to train.

Pyramid shape with one central leader and tiers of fruiting branches.

Prune Apple Trees

All pruning has a purpose.

The main aim is to:

• Assist in the establishment of the tree after planting.
• Make sure that the tree has enough light and air
• Train the tree to an acceptable shape and size
• Increase the size of the fruit
• Encourage or control growth, whichever the tree demands
• Remove dead, diseased and damaged branches
• Strengthen the branch structure.

A one year old tree has a single stem and must be pruned as soon as possible after planting to encourage the budding of new side stems some of which will become the framework of the tree. Cut the main stem back to about one third, making a clean cut just above a bud. The buds below the cut will grow outwards in the first summer.

In the second winter after planting, look carefully at the tree and se1ect the three or five branches that will best create an open, vase like shape. Cut these branches back by one third and cut any other branches away cleanly at the main stem. Always prune to an outward facing bud.

In the third winter, each of the main branches will have grown shoots. At this stage, if you only chose three branches in the last year, then se1ect another two branches that will further develop the framework of the tree so that five well-spaced, open branches will remain. These should be pruned to by one third and the top side shoots of the other three initial branches can be used to elongate the structure. Cut these back by one third and everything else on the tree other than the five leaders should be cut back to 8 - 10cm from their point of growth.

At the end of the fourth growing season, look again at the five main branches which now form an open, pleasing shape, allowing light and air to enter. The branches must be kept pruned at this length each successive season. The new side shoots that grow must be cut back hard so that the fruiting spurs can be encouraged to grow.

Essentially, you want to create a compact, vase shaped tree with side shoots that are encouraged to continue to fruit. Only allow strong leaders to grow when it is time to replace one of the five main branches. This will ensure that you have sufficient fruiting wood for the future.

Make Compost! 

There is nothing more beneficial and nutritious that we can give to our plants than Compost. Actually, we feed it to the plants via the soil. Healthy soil, healthy plant. Simple. Heard that before? Yes, well there was a time when the word ‘compost’ evoked the word ‘organic’ which evoked an image of a crackpot nutter who claimed that soil was a living medium and not just a rooting substance. Turns out the nutter was right! However, those days are gone and compost has gone mainstream. It has become trendy to talk about the temperature of your heap over cocktails! 

There is absolutely no situation in which it is not possible to make and use organic fertiliser. Even if you are an apartment dweller in the inner city, your kitchen waste can be fed to a worm farm and you can tap off the liquid gold by-product as well as the vermicast – the highly nutritious substance of earthworm castings, to feed to your container kitchen garden on the balcony.  

Excellent reasons for making compost are: 

• To reduce the amount of waste we produce.
• To produce the very best plant food possible.
• To cut down on landfill space
• To economize by turning waste into gold  

If you have a garden, you need compost; and if you need compost you can make it yourself.  

Containers for Compost Making. 

Before choosing the type of container, consider the following: 

the size of the area that you can devote to making compost the capacity of the bin in relationship to the amount of garden and kitchen waste that you generate. the amount of effort you wish to put into the process, eg. turning compost with a garden fork the need for a modular bin that can be relocated                         Containers range from pre-formed plastic bins, including some that require no turning of compost as well as one that you can turn without opening it or using a fork called the Compost Tumbler. By far the easiest and most efficient are the modular wooden framed bins that can be knocked together very simply and quickly by using wooden planks, 1m x 15cm and form into squares with a post that stands proud on the bottom of the frame, thereby allowing for interlocking and for air to permeate the heap.  Other materials that can be used include stakes wrapped with chicken wire, and stacked concrete blocks. Whatever you decide to use, the container should measure at least 1m high x 1m wide x 1m deep. If you are serious about have a continuous supply of this magical substance, make sure that you have at least two bins, so that whilst you are still building one, the other is cooking. The optimum is to have three bins – one in the process of layering, one cooking and one ready for use.   You will also need some material to cover the heap to retain moisture and warmth. Although polythene will do the job, it is preferable to use sacks or old carpet or blankets which are porous.  Once you have decided what container or bin you want to use, you must decide on a location. This should be:  warm and sheltered – and preferably in the shade as the compost should remain moist at all times. it must be sited on bare soil and there should be sufficient space around the area to work with a wheelbarrow and/or chipper and have easy access from kitchen to area   When you are ready to build your heap, follow these simple instructions:  Layer some coarse, twiggy plant material at the bottom of the container, on bare ground, to ensure that drainage and aeration can take place. The material must not be too thick or woody as this will take too long to break down.  As material becomes available from garden and kitchen, alternate layers of green (rich in nitrogen) and brown (rich in carbon) plant material and sprinkle some garden lime between layers and some well-rotted animal manure between other layers. All your kitchen waste can go into the layers as green matter. You can tear strips of newspaper for brown material if you don’t have sufficient, or use straw or untreated sawdust. If you have comfrey growing, use a layer of comfrey leaves for some of the green layers as it is a compost activator. Another excellent activator is seaweed. Layers should be no more than 5 – 10cm deep.  When the heap is at least 1m high, you do not want to add new matter to it, but rather to leave it alone to decompose and for the micro-organisms and earthworms to get on with their work. Water the heap so that the material is moist but not sodden before you cover it over with a square of carpet or sacking. After a few days you will notice that if you put your hand into the centre of the heat (take care), it will be hot! It needs to get to temperatures of between 30 – 60 degrees centigrade.    Meanwhile start your second heap.   The smaller the plant matter, the quicker the breakdown will occur so it is really worth investing in a domestic chipper or shredder that will speed up the process. Another essential practice that will ensure that you have constant supplies of compost is to regularly turn the heap – at least every fortnight, but preferably once a week. This way you will have ready compost in 6 – 8 weeks as opposed to many months of waiting if you don’t turn it.  Compost is ready when the substance is crumbly, dark brown or black, sweet smelling and fairly dry. The best way to use it is to simply apply a 5cm layer directly to the soil. It is not necessary to dig it in as the micro organisms in the soil will do the work for you, and digging will just destroy their homes!  What to Use for Greens  food scraps other than animal flesh or fat manure fresh grass clippings weeds without seeds vegetable scraps seaweed tea leaves and bags coffee grounds shredded garden clippings  What to Use for Browns  straw torn newspaper/cardboard egg cartons tree prunings dry leaves bark, untreated sawdust wood ash twigs and sticks crushed shells  What NOT to Use  Cat and dog faeces Animal or fish flesh, bones or fat Dairy products Non-organic materials such as tin and glass and plastic Weeds that are invasive and have gone to seed Leaves of trees that are extremely fibrous such as cabbage trees and flax or matter that is too woody and as these will all take too long to break down. Any plant that has a disease should not be added as disease may spread Any substance that has been treated with toxic chemicals  Some days it may seem like a drag to go to all this effort, but rest assured, that when you see the result of your efforts in the vibrant health of your plants which are growing in soil that is nourished and balanced, it will be extremely rewarding.   Any questions? Just post them on the forum.